Wine Talk with Graham Watson | Canterbury News | Local News in Canterbury

The year 2004 was a momentous one for the New Zealand wine industry. New plantings bearing fruit for the first time and generally favourable growing conditions saw a record harvest in 2004, easily surpassing the previous record 2002 harvest and the low 2003 harvest.

Although some of the increased production will go to supply unfilled orders from the 2003 vintage, there will still need to be a concerted effort to sell all the wine.

Domestic consumption is relatively static and so a big effort will be needed on the export front.

Another significant event to occur in 2004 was the recent holding of the 1st International Screwcap Symposium in Blenheim.

More than 260 delegates from several different countries attended the event. The symposium was conceived and organised by the New Zealand Screwcap Initiative, started in 2001 by a group of Marlborough wineries frustrated by the significant number of wines spoilt by cork taint.

Since then screwcap use has increased dramatically in New Zealand and it is estimated more than 70% of the 2004 vintage wines will be sealed by screwcap.

On the personal front 2004 saw Brian Vieceli of Christchurch become chairman of the New Zealand Wine Institute and New Zealand Winegrowers.

Vieceli brought 40 years of experience in the drinks industry to this important position, most recently as CEO of Nobilo Wine Group.

Another notable personal event that happened in 2004 was the naming of George Fistonich, managing director of Villa Maria Estate, as 2004 New Zealander of the Year by the National Business Review.

The title recognised Fistonich as a successful exporter, arts patron and benevolent employer, as well as an accomplished winemaker.

Fistonich was also shortlisted as one of 50 prominent wine industry figures by Wine International Magazine in the United Kingdom.

This crowns a successful year for Villa Maria, which also saw it take 42% of the trophies including champion wine of the show trophy at the recent Air New Zealand Wine Awards.

I have often stated that riesling is an under-rated variety in New Zealand. Although there were only 653 hectares of riesling in production in New Zealand in 2003 (by comparison sauvignon blanc had 4516 hectares), I still feel we have the conditions to produce a range of high quality wines from this classic German variety.

Most wine bought is consumed within a year, which can be a problem for dry rieslings, which may take up to three years to develop.

It is therefore probably prudent that winemakers leave some residual sugar in their rieslings so they can be consumed earlier.

I recently tried three New Zealand rieslings:

The Cross Roads Destination Series Hawkes Bay Riesling 2004 is a wine that is still quite tight and needs further bottle ageing.

The Saint Clair Marlborough Riesling 2003 has an attractive citrus bouquet and a medium dry palate. It can be drunk now but has enough acid to suggest it will develop further in the bottle.

The Framingham Marlborough Classic Riesling 2003 has an appealing apple bouquet with good fruit concentration and palate length. It can be enjoyed now and over the next three to four years.

Best wishes and enjoyable drinking for 2005.