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Why are rieslings from Waipara so good? And why so varied in style?

We do not know for sure but most of the varietals used in the area are from extremely good trials carried out by Dr David Jackson in the early 1970s at Lincoln.

He managed to obtain a range of riesling cultivars from the famous Institute at Giesenheim. These cultivars were kept separate with small, difficult winemaking carried out on often only a dozen or so bunches by Danny Schuster, working at the time at Lincoln.

Possibly because of the high calcium content of much Waipara soil, often stony river-flat in origin, and the warm microclimate, protected by upthrust hills, the grapes in this valley area seem unique.

Whereas the huge areas of Marlborough rieslings, largely from the Wairau valley floor, are often broader and with more open citrus styles.

From Central Otago the grapes, despite their ability to stand cold, often have an intensity of flavour and acid in the mouth but not the same minerality characteristic of Waipara.

We are lucky to live in Christchurch with such magnificent rieslings only an hour's drive north!

More wines (eight Waipara rieslings were reported last week):

Torlesse 2003 Waipara Riesling: 12% alcohol and 7.5 residual grams sugar. Light, lifting nose of fresh orange peel. Good minerality in palate which has nice complexity with lime freshness. An excellent food riesling. RRP $16-17.

Canterbury House Riesling 2004: 13% alcohol and 6 grams residual sugar. A broad, ripe style but light and clean with minerality at end. RRP $17-18.

Alan McCorkindale 2003 Riesling: As one would expect from an "old master" of rieslings, a beautifully made lemon gold wine. Great lifting fruit with real length in a complex palate. Good example. RRP $20-22

Muddy Waters Riesling Unplugged 2004: Very ripe, fruity nose and palate. Concentrated citrus ? very long palate. Another top riesling to put away. RRP $24.

James Hardwicke 2003 Muddy Water Riesling: Lighter, lifting aromatic stytle ? elegant palate style. RRP $22-24.

Waipara Springs 2003: 11.5% alcohol and dry style ( 5 grams only residual sugar so excellent for people with diabetes). Nice honeysuckle and orange blossom nose ? long palate. Great value for money. RRP $17.

Glenmark Dry Riesling 2001: Great to be able to buy a 4-year-old and developing riesling. Lifting aromatic nose ? dry, bright almost calcific in palate. Buy for good experience. RRP $14.95.

Glenmark Weka Plains 2000 Medium Riesling: John McCaskey as the pioneer of this area keeps back older wines ? this is an interesting example. Well developed citrus nose, and palate softening. Try now. RRP $16.95.

Waipara West Rieslings: The 2001 and 2002 either all exported or in short supply. I tried the 2003. Light clean, nice aromas, balanced mineral and fruit, 12% alcohol, 7 grams residual sugar. RRP $20.